THE ULTIMATE TRIATHLON

Week Seven

Monday May 25th - Hot Water Beach to Tairua

Hot Water Beach is a place where you can literally dig your own hot pool in the sand. Hot water rises up from a volcanic hot water reservoir far below and it is a very strange thing indeed. I had waited since 4pm yesterday until midday today for the tide to go out so I would be able to dig. I then spent about an hour digging with my hands, a process which was quite infuriating because every so often a big wave would come in and ruin the pool. Still, I'm not keen on giving up easily and eventually, after a girl had lent me her spade, I made a damn good hot pool and relaxed in it with her. Then a big wave came in and ruined it all.

Tuesday May 26th - Tairua to Kaiaua
Distance cycled: 89 km

Tairua is a nice place and I left it quite reluctantly. Today I rode through the last of the remoter hills and felt quite sad that this is all going to come to a end very soon. I reached the coast past Miranda, where I stayed my second night out from Auckland, and as I began to retrace my steps towards the city I relaised how much fun this trip has been, and how I don't want it to end.

Wednesday May 27th - Return to Auckland
Distance cycled: about 100 km

I hadn't planned to get back to Auckland today, but it happened. I was going to camp at Beachlands, where I camped the first night out of Auckland, but i was disappointed to find that the mosquitoes that made that night a misery were still around. Not wanting to get eaten alive again, I struck out for Auckland. It is a massive place so I reckoned I could find somewhere to sleep. Luck was on my side as I got chatting to a cyclist outside the supermarket, who offered me a place to stay. Bob is a pilot on standby, ready to stand in for any sick pilots at short notice. Luckily none called in sick overnight and I got to have a good rest. Before that I had sat out on Bucklands Beach watching an extraordinary sunset.

Thursday May 28th - Auckland

Auckland is much the same as I remember it. The sun is still shining. Everything is quite green and pleasant and the people friendly. I can see why it is the 4th best city to live in in the world (behind Zurich, Vienna and Geneva if you're interested.) Stayed at my Brazilian friend, Adriano's place. Good to see him again after so long. My thoughts are turning now towards the Tour de France - it is only a week away!

Week Six

Monday May 18th - Tauranga to Mclaren Falls
Distance cycled: 50 km

Difficult day today. Spent the morning in Tauranga / Mt Maunganui and reluctantly left town with tired legs. I was diverting south towards Cambridge, partly to avoid cycling on Highway 2 again, which had been a horrible road on the way in to Tauranga a month ago. But this highway was, if anything, worse. I was riding up over the Kaima mountain range, which meant a lot of uphill in stifling heat. The traffic was heavy and fast, and I was labouring up these hills. The hard shoulder eventually disappeared to nothing, leaving me in real trouble. At one point I had to push my bike in the grass verge, because there was nowhere to ride. Salvation came in Mclaren Falls park, where I was permitted by the park ranger to camp for free. It was a beautiful spot and a blessed relief after a tough day.

Tuesday May 19th - Mclaren Falls to Cambridge
Distance cycled: 78 km

The road up the Kaimai had, unfortunately, not magically improved overnight. It was still really steep and really busy and really not fun. Relief came in a side road 'Old Kaimai Road' which was even more steep, but devoid of vehicles. It was bliss! After a while I was forced back onto the highway, but before long came to a sign saying 'Road Summit: 499m' My obvious disappointment at failing to reach 500m was tempered somewhat by the views down into the plains below. Flat land. Miles and miles of flat land. Oh how I had dreamed of this day. Racing down the far side of the Kaimai was about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on, and then it was a nice afternoon ride through the countryside to Cambridge, where I slept, in a park. It was called the park of trees but really it should have been called the park of ducks, because they kept me awake all night with their quacking.

Wednesday May 20th - Cambridge

A few weeks ago I received an email from a chap named Patrick, who had read about me in Triathletes World. He ran the Marathon des Sables in 2005, and is going to again next spring (when I will also be running.) When he found out I was in New Zealand he gave me the email and I decided to pay him a visit in Cambridge. It was really good to hang out with him and get some good advice from someone who has been there and done it. Along with his partner Bex, we spent the afternoon hiking up a mountain, as I generally like to do on my 'rest days' and a pleasant time was had by all.

Thursday May 21st - Cambridge to some waterfall

Back on the road again and a nice day riding on some really quiet roads. It was almost like cycling in the English countryside. I reached a 150m high waterfall and, naturally, hiked up through the forest to the top.

Friday May 22nd - Up to Thames

Some really flat roads today, I couldn't believe it. I didn't have to use my small chainset once. Now that hasn't happened in a very long time. Everything was going really well. I realised as I approached Thames that it had been sunny for 3 whole weeks, and I hadn't had a single puncture in that time. I looked at my cycle computer, and I had ridden 76km by early afternoon and I felt really good, really strong. Wow, life was good.

Five minutes later I was trying to change a punctured tyre in the middle of a torrential rainstorm. I got the spare in, but that punctured as well almost straight away. Life was not good.

Luckily I was within 2km of Thames, and a bike shop, so I was able to walk and get another tube. Considering some of the remote places I've been, that was pretty lucky. Or maybe it just happened because of all the glass and debris in the busy roads around towns. Anyway, I got the tube, got it fixed, and the sun came back out. Happy days.

Saturday May 23rd - Thames to Matarangi

Up the west side of the Corrmandel peninsula today. It is a quite beautiful part of the world and was nice cycling by the coast again, although the road got a little narrow and a little close to the edge at times! I met a guy who warned me I had 3 big climbs before I reached Corromandel Town. I took it with a pinch of salt, thinking I could handle them easy now. Well, the first one was an absolute monster, and the second not much better, which meant I was very relieved to roll into Corromandel with no sign of a third big climb. After a nice lunch by the sea I set off again, now heading inland to the east, when I was confronted immediately by a sign saying 'Scenic Lookout: 3km' Now this is not a sign a cyclist likes to see when he is currently at sea level. You don't get scenic lookouts at sea level, you get them way up high and I knew I was in for one hell of a 3km. And I was. It was horribly steep. The road was quiet and I was shouting out with frustration. I wanted to stop so badly but I forced myself onwards, for some reason it was important to get to the lookout without stopping. For ages I pressed on until eventually I saw a sign: 'Scenic Lookout: 2km' AAAAAAAAAAahhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!! My frustration drove me on, and finally I got to the lookout, feeling pretty chuffed as I collapsed on a bench and took no notice whatsover off the scenic views.

Sunday May 24th - Matarangi to Hot Water Beach

Not so much cycling today but a few touristy things. Went to Cathedral Cove, which wasn't entirely impressive, and then Hot Water Beach.

Week Five

Sunday May 10th - Tolaga Bay to Ruatoria
Distance cycled: 79 km

Reached Ruatoria today and was taken in by a lovely Mauri lady called Francis who gave me a place to stay, food to eat, a warm shower. What a lovely woman.

Monday May 11th - Mountain climbing
Distance cycled: 0 km

Didn't cycle today. Instead I hiked up Mt Hikurangi, up to a hut where I stayed the night. Above the hut the mountain is covered in snow and I have been told is not possible to summit in such conditions. But I am tempted to try.

Tuesday May 12th - More mountain climbing
Distance cycled: 26 km

Beautiful clear skies tempt me to climb further up the mountain. The snow is a foot deep and the mountain is beautiful. I struggle to make my way in the snow, which has made the track difficult to follow - everything is white. I am lead by poles which mark the way but I struggle to see from one pole to the next. Eventually the poles run out and I have to guess the route. I know I need to turn left up a 'chute' and then right along a ridge. I turn left and start climbing up steeply. I am not sure this is the correct route but I am going to try. It is really hard work, climbing through the snow. I am ill-equipped, but the snow is deep enough that I can get a firm grip by punching into it with fists and feet. Occasionally I slip back down and have to find another way up, but I keep going. I look around, I am alone on a snow covered mountain with no one around for miles. I wonder how long it would take them to find me. Eventually, I reach the top of this 'chute' but there is no obvious route to follow from here. I cannot continue, and admit defeat, returning down the mountain. After cycling back to town I discover I had turned left too early, before the proper route, and had been climbing in the wrong place. C'est la vie. It was a tremendous adventure.

Wednesday May 13th - Ruatoria to Te Araroa
Distance cycled: 49 km

Legs felt very tired today after the previous days exertions on the mountain. I was glad to get to Te Araroa where I spent the afternoon sitting by the beach and catching up on some rest.

Thursday May 14th - Te Araroa to Te Kaha
Distance cycled: 96 km

A long days ride. The first 40 km took me back inland and over some very big hills. Then I hit the coast again, but a stiff headwind slowed my progress further. It was a beautiful road to cycle on though, along the Pacific Coast Highway. I watched as the sun got lower in the sky and eventually watched it set over the ocean, before a million stars came out and lit up the night sky. It was beautiful, but I am concerned. I am concerned about my speed. I had ridden hard all day and I had only covered half the distance of a typical Tour de France stage. Am I really going to be able to do this?

Friday May 15th - Te Kaha to Opotiki
Distance cycled: 78 km

I made good progress this morning, as if I had something to prove I had ridden the 70 km to Opotiki before lunchtime. But after restocking here, the road became tricky. Usually the highways in New Zealand have wide shoulders to cycle in, but this road did not. With cars going past in both directions at 100kph+ I had no choice to stop. But this was the only road. I spent the afternoon by the sea and plotted my escape.

Saturday May 16th
Distance cycled: 105 km

Left at 4am to travel when the road was quiet. The moon was bright and lit the way for me. It was actually fun riding in the dark and I saw the most beautiful of sunrises from a place called Ohope beach. Reached Whakatane feeling really good. Spent quite a while here, but still had time to hit 100 km for the day. The roads are so much flatter here, its nice to not be constantly struggling up hills.

Sunday May 17th - Tauranaga, again
Distance cycled: 65 km

Week Four

Sunday / Monday May 4th - Napier

Spent the weekend in a hostel in Napier. Had to wait until Monday anyway to get my brake pads replaced after I burnt them out coming down the mountains. Napier was nice. Monday I cycled along the coast a short trip, but didn't take any spares. Got a puncture in the worst place and had to walk four hours back to the hostel. At least the sun is back!

Tuesday May 5th - Out of Napier

Left Napier behind - was getting a bit too comfortable in the hostel with my nice warm bed and hot showers, TV, etc. Its at least the next week on the road for me I've decided. Took things easy today, the road headed back in land and took in a few hills, oh how I've missed them. I got another puncture late in the day which annoyed me quite a lot, but it did at least help me find a great spot to camp.

Wednesday May 6th
Distance cycled: 109 km

Got quite a bit of actual cycling done today. My cycle computer, which has been out of action for over a week, kicked back into life this morning for no apparent reason, which was nice of it. The sun was out, quite a few hills, then back to the coast, it was a nice day.

Thursday May 7th - Moko the dolphin
Distance cycled: 67 km

Spent most of the day in and around a place called Mahia Beach. There is a wild bottle-nosed dolphin called Moko that lives there and is a bit of a celebrity for her tendency to come in to the bay and swim with people. I had been told about Moko by another traveller in Taupo and figured it was worth a detour. Spent most of the morning trying to tap the water, as I had been told to, to get Moko's attention. After ages of trying, I had given up and was all set to leave when I saw a dark fin in the water - it was Moko. I ran into the water and sure enough Moko swam right over to me. It was a beuatiful animal and really special experience swimming with her.

Friday May 8th - Into Gisborne
Distance cycled: 66 km

Reached Gisborne today. It is the first city in the world to see the sun each new day.

Saturday May 9th - Gisborne to Tolaga Bay
Distance cycled: 67 km

A nice relaxed days ride in the sunshine. Had a nice tail wind behind me and reached Tolaga Bay, where I saw a very long wharf and took a run along Cook's Cove walkway which was mighty fun.

Week Three

Monday April 27th - Turangi to Whakapapa Village
Distance cycled: 66 km

A lot of hills today, culminating in me cycling up the side of an active volcano, Mt Ruapahu. It was a 12km climb, the first 6 km up to Whakapapa Village being quite gentle. Beyond the village, however, things got really steep. I was almost immediately amongst the clouds, with visibility low. I battled on up really tough steep climbs. Occasionally it would level off slightly and I would get a breather before the road would rise again, winding around the mountainside. I was travelling through rocky terrain, the air was getting thinner but I battled on and eventually reached the top. From the village at 1100 m I had climbed to a ski-field at 1630 m altitude in 6.5 km. That was about a 8% average climb, and I was mighty proud as I whizzed back down again.

Tuesday April 28th - Whakapapa Village to Ohakune
Distance cycled: 80 km

Another day, another volcano. Well, the same one actually, just attacked from a different angle. I had woken up soaking wet after a poor effort in putting up my tent combined with a torrential downpour. I just wanted to get to Ohakune, where I found a hostel, and I made the 50 km before mid-morning. In the afternoon, the sun came out and I decided to cycle up Ohakune Mountain Road. This was a road of some 16 km which rose from 600 m all the way up to 1650 m. I decided to leave the panniers behind for this one! The road wound up, gently at first, through exotic looking rainforest and woodland. Up and up I continued, finding something of a rhythm as the km gradually passed by. Past the 10km mark, the road became much steeper and the weather worsened. Eventually the forest gave way to rocky plains and I found myself horribly exposed to fierce winds. I was struggling, at times it felt like I was barely moving as the wind and rain lashed against me, pushing me back. But again I slowly pressed on and eventually made it to the end of the road and a deserted skifield. It was with a sense of enormous satisfaction that I stood there, shivering in the biting wind, at the top of that mountain road. It was a 16 km climb at about 6% average, much steeper at the top, and I had done it, I had made it to the top. Standing there in that weather, all alone at the top of that road, I knew I had a chance at the Tour, and it felt good. Not as good as the journey down though - it was so much fun racing down through the rainforest in what had become a tropical rain storm, the road to myself. It put bungee jumping in the shade.

Wednesday April 29th - Ohakune Rest Day

I was in a quite ridiculously indecisive mood today. I couldn't decide whether to go north or east. In fact, three times I started heading north but turned back, before eventually giving in and booking another night at the hostel. Spent the afternoon doing some hiking and running in the forest around Ohakune and the evening watching films in the hostel. But tomorrow I will head west, towards Napier, in the knowledge that it is at least 200 km through forest and mountains.

Thursday April 30th - Out of Ohakune

I felt like I was setting off on an expedition today. Napier was such a long way away, through the mountains and the forests, on a lonely looking road. There was 50 km between place names on my map at times, and given that most of the time they are just that, place names, I really was heading out into the wilderness. And I made slow progress today. There was an awful lot of climbing, and my attempts to avoid the dreaded 'Highway 1' meant I was taking an absurd detour along gravel tracks. Eventually gave in and rode on Highway 1, and it wasn't at all bad. A wide shoulder and not too much traffic. I wasn't on it too long before heading off onto the 'Taihape-Napier' with Napier being signposted as being 154 km away, and the road containing warnings that it would likely be closed due to snow in the winter. When you read that, you know you are going to be going high. Strange then, that there was a lot of downhill to start with. I camped out feeling optimistic.

Friday May 1st - Taihape-Napier Road

What a day! Just a phenomenal amount of climbing today. Up and up I went, into the mountains, all morning I went up. Then, with one swooping descent I would come way back down again, only to have to do all the climbing again. I began to resent the downhills because I always knew they would lead to more ups. The road went from tarmac, to gravel, to mud. The scenery went from farmland to forest, and what magnificent scenery it was - beautiful forest covered peaks. But the climbs were too much. After one particularly long downhill, I found myself surrounded by huge mountain peaks on all sides and I knew the only way out was up. And that road up was so steep, it must have been at least 15% and I was swerving all over the road, my legs were screaming with agony and I just knew I couldn't push them any further. I collapsed by the side of the road and lay face up on the verge. There I was, in the middle of nowhere, staring up at the most spectacular scenery, really incredible, towering forested peaks all around. I had to laugh, but I was exhausted, it was relentless, endless climbing. Would these mountains never end?! But I knew I only had one way out so I picked myself up and got on my bike and took on that ridiculously steep climb. At least it wasn't raining. Then, it started to rain.

Saturday May 2nd - Into Napier

Everything was soaked through this morning. I have a very warm sleeping bag, but getting up and getting dressed into wet clothes in the rain, it ain't fun. What was fun this morning though, was the ride. It was about 50 km to Napier, and it was downhill all the way! Coming down out of the clouds, as the road returned to tarmac and the fields returned to farmland, it was unbridled joy. I made it to Napier, returned to the sea, and returned to civilization. I had taken on the wilderness and survived!

Week Two

Monday April 20th - Rotorua
Distance cycled: 17 km

It was my first miserable day in New Zealand and so I stuck around in my hostel and got a few things done. The bottom bracket needed replacing on my rented bike (I was not impressed) so I got that sorted. By then the rain had cleared and I cycled up Mt Ngongotaha. It was a fairly steep 3km climb but I found it quite easy, probably because my heavy panniers were lying harmlessly on my hostel floor.

My hostel Cactus Jacks

Tuesday April 21st - Rotorua
Distance cycled: 10 km

Lake Rotorua

A much nicer day in Rotorua despite a hangover. I stuck around for a rafting trip on the Kaituna river - this included grade five rapids, the worst of which was a 7m waterfall. Great fun! In the evening I cycled a short way out of Rotorua and camped out in the forest.

Forest camping

Wednesday April 22nd - Rotorua to Waikite Valley
Distance cycled: 33 km

An absolute nightmare of a day, truly awful. I woke to find my front tyre had a puncture. After putting the spare in, I then realised the pump the rental company had given me also was broke. Great! I walked the 5km back to Rotorua and got myself a couple of tubes. At least the sun was shining and I eventually got on my way. But after only a short while, my rear tyre suffered a flat! I couldn't believe it! These tyres were useless. I got it changed before dark, but there I was heading into farmland and there was nowhere to wild camp. There was a campsite some 16km ahead as the sun was setting and I found myself riding on into the night. This wasn't too bad, as the road was tarmac, and the sky was full of a thousand stars. There are so many more here than at home, its just a brilliant site. And then I got an even better one. Out of the darkness I could see rising plumes of light and steam. It was like an oasis in the desert to me. It was the campsite, and what a campsite. They had half a dozen naturally heated pools, swimming pools, private pools. It was bliss to find myself relaxing in them after such a stressful day. Lying back in the steamy waters I thought of my friends back in the UK who would just be getting up for work, and I thought life isn't so bad after all.

Thursday April 23rd - Waikite Valley to Taupo
Distance cycled: 65 km

I met a couple of other cyclists at the camp who warned me that I would start the day with a steep climb, and they weren't kidding. It was the hardest climb I have ever had to do. It must have been in the double figures percentage wise for a good 1.5 km but it felt like it was vertical. For the first time in a long time I felt like I wanted to stop, like I couldn't go on. But I did go on, sweat pouring off my forehead as I kept on griding upwards, kept turning my legs until eventually the road levelled off. I had made it. The rest of the road to Taupo was pretty flat and pretty straight, so thats all I have to say about that.

Friday April 24th - Taupo
Distance cycled: 15 km

This is what I did today:

Bungee!

Saturday April 25th - Taupo
Distance cycled: 18 km

I really like Taupo so I hung around a while. I stayed at a free campsite called Reid's farm, where all the cool backpackers hang out. To get there also involves cycling up a quite massive hill, which is good training.

Sunday April 26th - Taupo to Turangi
Distance cycled: 118 km

Hills and rain, hills and rain, hills and rain, and sheep. I could have been in Wales.

Monday April 27th - Turangi to Whakapapa Village
Distance cycled: 66 km

Tuesday April 28th - Whakapapa Village to Ohakune
Distance cycled: 80 km

Week One

Tuesday April 14th - Auckland
Distance cycled: 37 km

I got to Auckland early on Tuesday morning after a ridiculously long journey from the UK. It was a beautiful sunny day and fortunately I had the help of Helen and Phil. They were a couple I had found through 'Warmshowers' and they were the nicest people you can imagine. Not only did they provide me with a bed for the night, they fed me, looked after me, and even took me to a bike shop so I could find myself a bike to get around this place. I got a great deal on a rental bike and took it out for a test run in the afternoon. I cycled up Mt Victoria, which gave me a nice view over central Auckland. Auckland is a beautiful place, its so green and spacious and the sun was shining so bright, it was great to finally be here.

Wednesday April 15th - Auckland to Beachlands
Distance cycled: 60 km

After a very long sleep I said goodbye to Helen and Phil (amazing people) and headed off from the harbourside in Auckland. I was able to follow the coast for a while, and it was staggeringly beautiful, quite incredible. The sun was again shining bright and I was really enjoying it. But Auckland is a big old place, and it took me most of the day to make my way across the city. Not that I minded, its a nice place to cycle with wide roads. Eventually I did escape though and out into some beautiful countryside, before finding myself at a place called Beachlands, where I camped out with my own private beach.

Thursday April 16th - Beachlands to Miranda Springs
Distance cycled: 80 km

The coast road which I followed today was incredible. I didn't cover much distance, mainly because I kept stopping to look at the views and take photos! I had my first real big climb today out of Kawakawa bay. It was pretty darn steep and went on for a couple of Kms. There are plenty of hills which I keep having to get over but this was the first that had me grinding along in my lowest gear. Still, I made it over, even with the extra weight of my panniers. It really is great training for France.

I stopped early when I came across a campsite with a natural hot pool, heated by the thermals below. I met a German cyclist here who had just cycled across South America for 6 months with his girlfriend. Now they are here for a year before heading to Asia. Now theres a proper cycle tourer.

Friday April 17th - Miranda Springs to Tauranga / Mt Maunganui
Distance cycled: 143 km

I wanted to get to Tauranga in a day, which meant a long old ride and a dawn start. It looked like a good 150 km and so I wanted to see if it was possible to do such a distance in a day. If I'm going to get around NZ in 6 weeks, I will have to move fast. Within the first hour I had the company of a couple out for a morning cycle; Max and Di. I had a good chat with Max, who is remarkably one of 19 children. I guess they didn't have TV in this part of New Zealand when his parents were young.

Soon I joined the first main highway of my trip, which took me all the way to Tauranga. I was very happy to discover it was only one lane, and had a large shoulder for me to cycle along. There also wasn't too much traffic until the final stretch. I was now heading inland, but there was still some spectacular scenery as the highway wound through forests and hills.

I made it to Tauranga just before sunset and made it to the info centre before it closed, and managed to get myself booked on a trip for the next morning. Then I made my way around to the beach below Mt Maunganui and slept out under the stars.

Saturday April 18th - Mt Maunganui
Distance cycled: 17 km

What a day! Not much cycling, but a fantastic day trip out to swim with dolphins. I was really, really lucky, not only because I had made it just in time (the last trip of the season), but that we found a pod of about 200 wild dolphins, which swam with our boat for ages. We were able to get in and swim with them and it really was an incredible experience. Such magical animals.

We got back late afternoon but I wanted to trek up Mt Maunganui. The sun was already setting so I ran up it as fast as I could, but it was worth it for the spectacular views. Slept on the beach again - the perfect end to a perfect day!

Sunday April 19th - Mt Maunganui to Rotorua
Distance cycled: 88 km

A fair old days cycling this one. I took a lot of back roads, which meant an awful lot of climbing, and quite a few gravel tracks - I was very glad I'd got a hybrid. Some very nice views again though, and I found a beautiful waterfall which I went for a very refreshing swim under.

Arriving in Rotorua, I was greeted by a park full of thermal pools. They really are quite extraordinary things. Bubbling and steaming, mud and water spurts from craters in the earth. Not the kind of thing you see in Hyde Park.